Jeff's Technology Weblog

I’m hitting the track on Thursday for the first time with my Spec Miata. I’ve put in a ton of hours preparing the car and am looking forward to finally taking it on track. My car isn’t really set-up properly yet, so I’ll be taking it easy. The primary purpose of the track session is to work out any reliability bugs and also begin to think about setup adjustments.

As part of my prep, I’ve been working on tech inspecting the car and working on various checklists for pre- & post- track.

On the tech inspection front, I ran the car for another short road session (<5 miles) to test the brakes and steering (after several previous sessions of 10-20 miles in the mountains near my house). After the drive, I did a full inspection and nut/bolt check of the brake system, parts of the suspension, tires, lug nuts, engine compartment, etc. I also ran the car suspended on jack stands in order to inspect for leaks. I did find one minor coolant leak which was fairly easy to fix. Now it feels like I’m ready.

I created a few checklists for use on track/race day. I’m sharing those here for others to use. Feedback is welcome.

Pre/post-race:

1. Inspect engine/trans/diff:
   • radiator & heater hoses
   • crank, cam, valve gasket
   • transmission
   • differential
2. Inspect pads/rotors
3. Inspect tires
4. Torque lug nuts @ 76ft-lbs (YMMV – 76 is for my car not necessarily yours)
5. Check/set tire pressure
6. Clean windshield, rear window, mirrors
7. Check/fill fuel
8. Check/fill radiator
9. Check/fill oil
10. Check/fill brake fluid
11. Check/fill clutch fluid
12. Check/fill windshield washer fluid
13. Secure hood pins
14. Secure trunk

.

Pre-grid:

1. Fire pin: Out
2. Center net: Attach/Tighten
3. Window net: Attach
4. Belts: Attach Lower & Upper
5. Steering Wheel: Attach
6. Helmet: On
7. Chin Strap: Tighten
8. Belts: Tighten Lower & Upper
9. Gloves: On
10. Sunglasses: On

.

Grid:

1. Fire pin: Re-check
2. Center net: Re-check
3. Window net: Re-check
4. Belts: Re-check
5. Steering Wheel: Re-check
6. Chin Strap:  Re-check
7. Data: On
8. Video: On

.

1-minute Board:

1. Data: Record
2. Video: Record

.

Pit-return:

1. Engine: Off
2. Gear: 5th
3. Brakes: Off
4. Video: Stop/Off
5. Data: Stop/Off
6. Steering Wheel: Detach
7. Window net: Detach
8. Center net: Loosen
9. Belts: Loosen/Detach
10. Helmet: Off
11. Fire pin: In

I finally got back to my Spec Miata project after a couple of weeks of inactivity due to work and travel. Today’s primary task was to replace the stock oil pressure sender. The primary reason to install an aftermarket gauge in the Miata is that my 1999 stock gauge doesn’t indicate true pressure. Instead, it simple indicates if there is or is not oil pressure.

Getting the stock pressure sensor out of the engine block is a little bit of a pain due to the inaccessibility. But using a 24mm deep socket and some patience is rewarded. The stock pressure sensor can only be seen with the engine removed or from underneath the car looking. However, removal of the sensor is best accomplished from the top of the engine compartment reaching under the engine block.

The following picture shows the location of the sensor above and to the left of the oil filter.

Replacing the stock sender with a remote sender

For my needs, I installed  a remote oil pressure sender relocation kit from Advanced Autosports. Using this kit, you can reconnect the stock sender and also add the aftermarket gauge connection to the new port. It is important to use high-temperature thread sealant on the fitting that goes into the engine block. You can pick this up at most auto parts stores.

Multi-port with stock sensor and aftermarket gauge tubing

For my application, I chose an AutoMeter 4421 2 5/8″ mechanical gauge. I mounted it in my radio plate next to my water temperature gauge. Note that you will also need to do some wiring into the fuse panel for gauge lighting (if desired).

Oil pressure gauge (on the right) with water temperature gauge

If you are reasonably proficient, then this job only takes a couple of hours.

Today, I got around to installing my AMB transponder. I placed mine in the front, driver’s side wheel well.

AMB Transponder

Installation was fairly straightforward:

1. Mark and drill holes for mounting the transponder.
2. Rivet the transponder in place.
3. Route the power cable up into the engine compartment.
4. Wire into the harness between the headlight and air intake.

I also used some silicone sealant at the point where the power cable went into the chassis to prevent chafing issues.